In need of some luxury (in as far as our budget allows) we stopped next in Sukhothai at a nice little hostel with log cabin rooms and a respectable swimming pool, keen to check out the ancient ruins at the Historical Park. Although not expecting them to be as impressive as previous ones we'd seen, they looked interesting all the same. The next day we rose early and rode out to the ruins before the full heat of the day kicked in. Sukhothai Historical Park is a frustrating place. In some areas the temples are truly stunning, but on the whole the site is fairly average as far as ancient temples go.
A further annoyance (and one which we found repeatedly in Thailand) was the much higher entry fees charged for foreigners. Also, at this particular site you have to pay separately to enter each zone, only one of which is really worth the money. Now we're not talking huge amounts of money here, just a few dollars for each area, but the principal of it sticks in your throat after a while, especially when in some places the foreigner price is ten times that of a local. We rented old style 'sit up and beg' push bikes and made our way slowly around the sites as the heat increased, before finally admitting defeat and retiring the our hostel to lay in the pool.
Later that night we headed back to the Historical Park for the local food market and light show held only a couple of times each month. It was surprisingly good and we wandered until we could eat no more. Still though, Thailand continued to lack something and its absence was slowly wearing us down and making us irritable, unlike anywhere else we've been.